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Since you have the edge mathematicaly you should play forever if you could right? Is there a time you recommend quitting a session? Does it ever depend on how far up or down you are? Thank you.
I generally like to set a time limit of roughly an hour per session, to avoid overexposure. This is completely impractical if you are in an area with limited games to choose from. Other than that, quit when you are tired, or when you have won or lost enough to draw extra attention.
Does anybody know a casino in vegas which offers early surrender? Did you try to irritate the dealer by saying “Surrender” after he has dealt and did it work as “Eary surrender”? In Czech Republik in Europe there is surrender allowed but only against a dealers 10
I haven’t played the trainer in some time, but a few days ago I decided to sharpen up a little. I noticed the trainer looked different and saw that it had been updated. Okay so far, then when I hit a blackjack with $5.00 bet I noticed that the payoff was not correct for a 3:2 game. I then did some experiments and found that with an odd amount bet like $5.00, $15.00, $25.00 etc, it was rounding the payoff up to the next dollar. Betting $10.00, $20.00, $30.00 pays correctly. I know “Picky, Picky” for a trainer, but I am that way.
I am thankful to this site for making me a better player. I do not understand why the basic strategy calls for a hit rather than a double 11 against an ace .With the dealer having proved he does not have a BJ.
In H17 games (and 1-deck and 2-deck S17 games too), basic strategy does have the player double 11 vs Ace, so it’s a close call. In S17 games with more than 2 decks, where you should not double 11 vs Ace, the inability to draw again if you make a poor hand slightly outweighs the benefit of doubling the bet. (The dealer busts less often in those games, which probably explains most of the difference.) But as with most questions of basic strategy, it just is what it is. It’s not always intuitively obvious why one play is better than the other.
Something I’m confused about. I compared the Hi Low here to the HiLo lite in calculating the edge. And with each hypothetical situation I worked out based on TC and decks remaining, the HiLoLite gave me an edge that was 1/2% more than the HiLow. Is this a known difference or may I be doing something wrong in my calculations? If I’m doing this right, should they come out the same? And if there is a difference, which one would be more preferable?
I’ve never worked with Hi Lo Lite, so I don’t know the process used. You should probably ask on the message forum instead. 1/2% difference in edge does seem too high to me.
Hey there Ken. I do have an interest in your advanced strategy cards and I will probably end up ordering some. One area of concern I have regards usin them at the table. I imagine when you first released them and maybe even still today, the stealth factor works pretty well at camouflage. But over time, what’s stopping from casino personnel purchasing your cards and getting familiar with them? To me, that just seems like it screams counter if they know what to look for. I still plan on committing theses to memory, but what’s your opinion on that? Is it likely to happen over the next few years or probably not?
So far there are under 1000 sets of these in circulation, so I suspect we’ll be fine for quite some time. In addition, I may release a basic strategy set that is the same physical size, so that will help too. I don’t think this is currently a concern.
So I believe I found the flaw, and it was in my calculations. I’m just going to put this here for anyone who stumbles across it that and has the same question. In my calculations for High Low, I factored in the disadvantage off the top (a generic .5% for te house) whereas I didn’t for the hi lo lite. That makes sense why the advantage was .5% off. Snyder isn’t quite as straight forward in his book about factoring in the advantage off the top into the true edge count as this website is, but I guess he leaves that up to the reader to assume.
It is difficult enough to draw two tens for a 20. Why would anyone sacrifice the second best point total to try to score big? It is easy to turn twenty into two twelve by splitting tens.
I play 6 deck. I use 20 units on a table at once (1 table amount). You should have 20 table amounts to make a bank roll. When flat betting only use 1 unit. You should have a minimum of 1 to 6 chip spread. Play your game like a computer and only reflect after 10 casino sessions. You may be in a normal pull back that is associated with only 1%-2% advantage. Hang in there my friend!!!
Since you have the edge mathematicaly you should play forever if you could right? Is there a time you recommend quitting a session? Does it ever depend on how far up or down you are? Thank you.
I generally like to set a time limit of roughly an hour per session, to avoid overexposure. This is completely impractical if you are in an area with limited games to choose from. Other than that, quit when you are tired, or when you have won or lost enough to draw extra attention.
Does anybody know a casino in vegas which offers early surrender?
Did you try to irritate the dealer by saying “Surrender” after he has dealt and did it work as “Eary surrender”?
In Czech Republik in Europe there is surrender allowed but only against a dealers 10
I haven’t played the trainer in some time, but a few days ago I decided to sharpen up a little. I noticed the trainer looked different and saw that it
had been updated. Okay so far, then when I hit a blackjack with $5.00 bet I noticed that the payoff was not correct for a 3:2 game. I then did
some experiments and found that with an odd amount bet like $5.00, $15.00, $25.00 etc, it was rounding the payoff up to the next dollar.
Betting $10.00, $20.00, $30.00 pays correctly. I know “Picky, Picky” for a trainer, but I am that way.
This is fixed now 🙂
Thanks!!!!
Ahhh thanks for the heads up! We’ll look into it 🙂
I am thankful to this site for making me a better player. I do not understand why the basic strategy calls for a hit rather than a double 11 against an ace .With the dealer having proved he does not have a BJ.
In H17 games (and 1-deck and 2-deck S17 games too), basic strategy does have the player double 11 vs Ace, so it’s a close call. In S17 games with more than 2 decks, where you should not double 11 vs Ace, the inability to draw again if you make a poor hand slightly outweighs the benefit of doubling the bet. (The dealer busts less often in those games, which probably explains most of the difference.) But as with most questions of basic strategy, it just is what it is. It’s not always intuitively obvious why one play is better than the other.
Something I’m confused about. I compared the Hi Low here to the HiLo lite in calculating the edge. And with each hypothetical situation I worked out based on TC and decks remaining, the HiLoLite gave me an edge that was 1/2% more than the HiLow. Is this a known difference or may I be doing something wrong in my calculations? If I’m doing this right, should they come out the same? And if there is a difference, which one would be more preferable?
I’ve never worked with Hi Lo Lite, so I don’t know the process used. You should probably ask on the message forum instead. 1/2% difference in edge does seem too high to me.
Hey there Ken. I do have an interest in your advanced strategy cards and I will probably end up ordering some. One area of concern I have regards usin them at the table. I imagine when you first released them and maybe even still today, the stealth factor works pretty well at camouflage. But over time, what’s stopping from casino personnel purchasing your cards and getting familiar with them? To me, that just seems like it screams counter if they know what to look for. I still plan on committing theses to memory, but what’s your opinion on that? Is it likely to happen over the next few years or probably not?
So far there are under 1000 sets of these in circulation, so I suspect we’ll be fine for quite some time. In addition, I may release a basic strategy set that is the same physical size, so that will help too. I don’t think this is currently a concern.
So I believe I found the flaw, and it was in my calculations. I’m just going to put this here for anyone who stumbles across it that and has the same question. In my calculations for High Low, I factored in the disadvantage off the top (a generic .5% for te house) whereas I didn’t for the hi lo lite. That makes sense why the advantage was .5% off. Snyder isn’t quite as straight forward in his book about factoring in the advantage off the top into the true edge count as this website is, but I guess he leaves that up to the reader to assume.
all chinese are crooked…never trust a chinamen…
It is difficult enough to draw two tens for a 20. Why would anyone sacrifice the second best point total to try to score big? It is easy to turn twenty into two twelve by splitting tens.
Good
Yeah, learn how to spell!
I play 6 deck. I use 20 units on a table at once (1 table amount). You should have 20 table amounts to make a bank roll. When flat betting only use 1 unit. You should have a minimum of 1 to 6 chip spread. Play your game like a computer and only reflect after 10 casino sessions. You may be in a normal pull back that is associated with only 1%-2% advantage. Hang in there my friend!!!
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