In search of the perfect C system

Stealth

Member
My brother wants to learn to count. He wants me to decide which system is best suited for him. Right now he is a near perfect BS player. I'm convinced he doesn't have the patience and perseverance to learn and properly use a level 2 count. However, he wants the option to add in a side C of aces later.

I'm personally using AOII. Given such, it goes against my grain to count aces in the main and on the side. I want to offer my brother a system that is powerful, easy to learn and use and if needed he can later add in a side C of aces.

How about I teach him the following balanced system:

2, 8 & A = 0 each
3,4,5,6,7 = +1 each
9,10,J,Q,K = -1 each

Does this system have a name? How accurate and perfect would it rate with or without a side of aces? Can I get the play and betting indexes for it?

Comments and suggestions please.

Stealth
 

Sonny

Well-Known Member
> I'm personally using AOII. Given such, it goes against
> my grain to count aces in the main and on the side.
> I want to offer my brother a system that is powerful,
> easy to learn and use and if needed he can later add
> in a side C of aces.

Why not use Hi-Opt I? It's an easy level 1 count similar to Hi-Low with the ace count on the side. It's a very weak system without the aces, but maybe you could teach him the Hi-Low and add an ace side count later.

-Sonny-
 

phantom007

Well-Known Member
Stick with AOII.............

for SD and DD....Keeping "Ace Side-Counts" will certainly help increase long-term EV. For 6D and 8D, I recommend "Revere Systematic Count", aka, "Silver Fox". DO NOT use AOII for anything past DD, unless you are so "anal retentive" that you want to track A's to the 1/4-Deck!

IMHO.

phantom007.
 

deZerTomB

Active Member
I started out with A,10 (-1) and 2,3,4,5,6 (+1) then went to 10 (-1) and 3,4,5,6 (+1) with ace side count using letters starting with A for ace hehe. But that's not really the hard part. It's honing your strategy for remebering which cards have been counted and not and remebering the count between deals when there is a delay. I like to group up the low and high cards on the table, cancelling each other out, rather than each card individually and that takes several hours of real time practice. Then adjust running count to true count. Don't forget the ace count in the adjustment. Next how to ramp up your bet without drawing attention. Next look for dealer flashing cards. Next shuffle tracking and cutting cards. Cutting the cards is your most powerful tool for controlling the count. Throw the Ill 18 in there and variations in penetration and counting is the easy part.

Or the very very first step could be raisng your bet when you see a bunch of low cards and few or no tens on the table. Which is what I first started doing with very limited success. 8+)
deZerTomB
 

Stealth

Member
Hi-Opt I is okay but my idea was to add in the 7 and the 9. Maybe that would give it a little more umph until my bro adds in a side C of aces. Here's what Hi-Opt I without the side of aces looks like on paper:

A 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 BC PE IC
0 0 1 1 1 1 0 0 0 -1 .88 .61 .85

The problem I have with Hi-Low is that the aces are in the main count. Seems wrong to count them twice if adding them also into a side C. Also, I think maybe the 7 should be counted instead of the 2 which is not a big problem.

Question: Would Hi-Opt I with a side of aces be more accurate and powerful than Hi-Low with a side of aces? What if I added in the 7 & 9 into Hi-Opt I?

Stealth
 

Stealth

Member
What if we were to compare the Canfield Expert with a side of A's to Hi-Lo or K-O, how would it stack up? My bro will use it primarily for 6D.
 
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