Your Definition Of An "Acceptable" Game

StudiodeKadent

Well-Known Member
In other threads I have seen some respondents, after being presented with a set of rules, say "that's a ridiculous game!" about a specific blackjack game.

My question to you: What is YOUR definition of the worst rules you will play under?

As for mine..

Although I've played under rules so terrible that the house edge is 0.55% (6d CSM S17 SplitOnce D9-11 NS), I refuse to play there any more.

Worst rules I would consider taking are H17 otherwise fully liberal Vegas rules (6d H17 Sp4 RSA LS DA2 DAS HE0.47%) I know, I'm fussy. And of course I'll shop around for better rules, like all reasonable gamblers.

Please specify what are the worst rules you will take, both under "can card count" and "can only play BS/flat bet" conditions.
 
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iCountNTrack

Well-Known Member
If you are not counting cards, the only rule that is really bad and you should avoid like a plague is BJ pays 6:5 or 1:1. Besides that if you only a BS player you will really need hundreds of thousands of hands to notice the difference.

If you are a card counter a combination of fewer decks and deep penetration can offset horrible rules such as the dreadful 6:5, for instance a DD 6:5 payout can be beaten with 90% pen with an average bet spread.

I personally would refuse to play any game if N0 was more than 10000 hands. That is just me
 

johndoe

Well-Known Member
Well, first of all, I don't know why you're wasting your time with a CSM in the first place, regardless of rules.

But there are no specific set of rules that I would "never" play. Deal it deep enough, or with other advanced techniques, and even a 6:5 BJ 8-deck shoe is beatable.

As a practical matter, you have to pick the best game with the best opportunities (outside of rules) you have access to.

Personally, I have ready access to S17/DAS/LS/NRSA, and am quite happy with that.
 

StudiodeKadent

Well-Known Member
johndoe said:
Well, first of all, I don't know why you're wasting your time with a CSM in the first place, regardless of rules.
I used to play at that place. I don't any more and regret ever playing there.

Plus, where I'm from, there are no shoe games outside high limit rooms. I'm also a BS recreational player, not a card counter.
 

moo321

Well-Known Member
Things I consider in selecting a game:

1. Penetration
2. Spread/Heat (can I get away with murder?)
3. Rules
4. Game Speed
5. Comps

I will play an 8 decker if it's a $5 table and I can spread 1-50. I will not play single deck if the pit or surveillance is sharp.
 

Pro21

Well-Known Member
For me there is a difference depending on if it is a game in my back yard, or if I have to travel, and how far I have to go. The longer the plane flight and the more remote, the better the game has to be. But usually my number one question is - how well does the casino take action? If they are going to break out in a sweat as soon as someone bets a few black chips then I don't care how good the game is.
 

tfg

Well-Known Member
I'll play anything up to a .75% edge as long as the penetration is good. Luckily I have an 8d S17 game that is pretty good nearby.
 

Blue Efficacy

Well-Known Member
I won't play 8 decks.

I won't play DD with pen' worse then 60%.

I won't play 4 decks worse than 75% pen, I'll tolerate 1.5 deck cuts if the limit is $5.

I won't play 6 decks if it has more than 1.5 cut, again assuming the limit is $5 or surrender is offered. If higher, I will only tolerate 5/6 or better.

I'll tolerate restrictions on doubling if it is a two deck game with acceptable pen' and low limits.
 

Kasi

Well-Known Member
StudiodeKadent said:
II'm also a BS recreational player, not a card counter.
Well, then, I'd just go for the lowest $EV/hr taking free drinks, if available, into consideration. Usually when I order a double absolute-vodka on the rocks they don't let me do it. When they do, it would cost me more to drink in my room so I'm golden lol.

Play at full tables to reduce hds/hr, play at low $mins to reduce $EV per hour.
Take an extra 20-30 seconds to play each hand including those difficult 20's vs whatever lol.

Figure out lowest $EV/hr.

That's as a flat-betting $min BS recreational player.

As a card-counter, maybe different universe.
 

Cardcounter

Well-Known Member
3:2 on blackjack double down 10-11 for one deck or any two cards for two deck. Perfer double any two for single deck. Two deck double any two double after split!
 

StudiodeKadent

Well-Known Member
Kasi said:
Well, then, I'd just go for the lowest $EV/hr taking free drinks, if available, into consideration. Usually when I order a double absolute-vodka on the rocks they don't let me do it. When they do, it would cost me more to drink in my room so I'm golden lol.
Thanks for the advice. I like your strategy regarding the free drinks! :)

Play at full tables to reduce hds/hr, play at low $mins to reduce $EV per hour.
Take an extra 20-30 seconds to play each hand including those difficult 20's vs whatever lol.
I agree. I pretty much always do this. Or I bring my mother along and she slows down play very, very significantly.

Figure out lowest $EV/hr.

That's as a flat-betting $min BS recreational player.

As a card-counter, maybe different universe.
Thanks for the advice. Generally speaking I play the "comp whore" game, playing slowly, having free drinks, racking up points and playing perfect BS. And although I don't card count per se, I would ( if the game has dependent trials ) slightly increase my bet for the next hand immediately after a lot of low cards come out. It's not much I know, but I think it would improve my staying time at the tables slightly.
 
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