if i dont vary my bet, but use playing indices, then shud i use a system w/ high PE?

[SilentBob420BMFJ]

hi-lo has a HORRIBLE playing efficiency (.51 via http://www.blackjackforumonline.com/content/hundred.htm), and there are many other systems with higher playing efficiencies on that list, so does that mean i should just go with one of those (and completely ignore the BC)? since im probably one of the only flat betting card counters, this is hard to get a good answer on.. simple as this, which card counting system would be best for a flat better that wongs and uses playing indices? and before you tell me how i need to vary my bets and how important that is (trust me, i know), i have a $1000 bankroll, so think about that.. i just want to flat bet the table minimum, wong, and use playing indexes, and im assuming that changes the entire perspective on "which counting systems are good" when your flat betting.. thanks.. oh ya, and also, would using a system just for the insurance bet bet a good idea? i mean the insurance bet is like 30% of the profit from playing decisions i think..

 

[Kasi]

simple as this, which card counting system would be best for a flat better that wongs and uses playing indices? and before you tell me how i need to vary my bets and how important that is (trust me, i know), i have a $1000 bankroll, so think about that.. i just want to flat bet the table minimum, wong, and use playing indexes, and im assuming that changes the entire perspective on "which counting systems are good" when your flat betting..

Ask yourself if you really care that the "better" system will allow you to lose your entire (I assume 100-unit) bankroll in 2X hours instead of X hours.

As a flat-betting card-counter who "wongs" in an unspecified game in an unspecified mannner using playing indices, and I don't mean to be whatever, just my worthless opinion, and feel free to disagree, but I don't think any system will lead to a positive EV game.

I think you know this from what I've read.

If pressed, maybe I'd say go with KO for 1-2 decks and Hi-Lo for 6-8 decks.

So, have fun using whatever system, but I don't think your results will be much different than "random" results.

 

[jack.jackson]

hi-lo has a HORRIBLE playing efficiency (.51 via http://www.blackjackforumonline.com/content/hundred.htm), and there are many other systems with higher playing efficiencies on that list, so does that mean i should just go with one of those (and completely ignore the BC)? since im probably one of the only flat betting card counters, this is hard to get a good answer on.. simple as this, which card counting system would be best for a flat better that wongs and uses playing indices? and before you tell me how i need to vary my bets and how important that is (trust me, i know), i have a $1000 bankroll, so think about that.. i just want to flat bet the table minimum, wong, and use playing indexes, and im assuming that changes the entire perspective on "which counting systems are good" when your flat betting.. thanks.. oh ya, and also, would using a system just for the insurance bet bet a good idea? i mean the insurance bet is like 30% of the profit from playing decisions i think..

If your looking for a point blank answer, which it sounds like you are. Well then here you go! Check it out! Heres a similiar system to uston APC. But with a somewhat stronger PE. This is as good as it gets for PE. unless you use the esoteric multi-params. So here it is.

11123221-1-3(PE. .70)(PC.997) NOTE: The PC. is the potential one could acheive through keeping several sidecounts of specified cards that reflect their average value of the same cards in maincount. BJ math analyzer 3.5

The PE vs the number of decks in a play.

Okay, keep in mind im only speculating here! But heres how i believe it works.
Lets use 1,2,4,6,8 decks for our example and lets also say each of these games(for conveinience) has a dead-even house edge. 0.00 off the top.
Now, using the above count which has a PE. of .70

You will divide the PE. for the numbers your playing against.
I.E (EV) 0.00 house edge. + means you have the edge.
1D .70+
2D .35+
4D .17.5+
6D .116
8D .088+

Note: a secondary count can be added later on for betting.

 

[SilentBob420BMFJ]

Ask yourself if you really care that the "better" system will allow you to lose your entire (I assume 100-unit) bankroll in 2X hours instead of X hours.

As a flat-betting card-counter who "wongs" in an unspecified game in an unspecified mannner using playing indices, and I don't mean to be whatever, just my worthless opinion, and feel free to disagree, but I don't think any system will lead to a positive EV game.

I think you know this from what I've read.

If pressed, maybe I'd say go with KO for 1-2 decks and Hi-Lo for 6-8 decks.

So, have fun using whatever system, but I don't think your results will be much different than "random" results.

people assume im trying to make money, i am not, i am trying to break even.. i play at a .43% house edge, and if i used a count just for insurance, and it lowered the house edge by like .23%, i would be fine with that, but i need to do something, because counting came pretty easy to me, and its a waste not to use it, even if your flat betting, because the majority of my wins are going to come from wonging obviously, but then i need something else too.. there has to be a system out there that is best for flat bet wonging with playing indices, and i dont want something that "will do" or "not much difference", but at the same time i dont want something hard, but i never said i want something easy, because hi-lo came fast to me, and i could do a 2 lvl count if it was like 0 1 1 2 1 0 0 0 -1 -1

 

[SilentBob420BMFJ]

If your looking for a point blank answer, which it sounds like you are. Well then here you go! Check it out! Heres a similiar system to uston APC. But with a somewhat stronger PE. This is as good as it gets for PE. unless you use the esoteric multi-params. So here it is.

11123221-1-3(PE. .70)(PC.997) NOTE: The PC. is the potential one could acheive through keeping several sidecounts of specified cards that reflect their average value of the same cards in maincount. BJ math analyzer 3.5

The PE vs the number of decks in a play.

Okay, keep in mind im only speculating here! But heres how i believe it works.
Lets use 1,2,4,6,8 decks for our example and lets also say each of these games(for conveinience) has a dead-even house edge. 0.00 off the top.
Now, using the above count which has a PE. of .70

You will divide the PE. for the numbers your playing against.
I.E (EV) 0.00 house edge. + means you have the edge.
1D .70+
2D .35+
4D .17.5+
6D .116
8D .088+

Note: a secondary count can be added later on for betting.

thats too hard for me, and probably most others too.. what im thinking is, would it be easier to use a simple insurance count and then just go with basic strategy with maybe a few indexes? what im saying is, if im going to take off lets say .1 off the house edge by using hi-lo count with 10 indexes, but i will take .07 off the house by using a simple insurance count, that would be easier.. but then again i still need a good count for wonging.. damn this is hard..

 

[SilentBob420BMFJ]

what about unbalanced 10s system? it looks perfect, it has a high PE and a 1.0 IC.. everything is 1, 10 is -2.. that sounds perfect for somebody who is flat betting.. or could i make up my own unbalanced 10s system, by not counting the ace, just doing 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 -2, that way its balanced, and would work the same as hi lo

 

[Sonny]

there has to be a system out there that is best for flat bet wonging with playing indices

A good level 2 system like Zen or Revere Advanced Point Count will work great for that.

what about unbalanced 10s system? it looks perfect, it has a high PE and a 1.0 IC.. everything is 1, 10 is -2.. that sounds perfect for somebody who is flat betting..

But it is bad for Wonging. You still need a system with a good BC so that you know when to leave the table. That is where the majority of your advantage is coming from so BC should be very important to you.

…and before you tell me how i need to vary my bets and how important that is (trust me, i know), i have a $1000 bankroll, so think about that..

That’s a tough situation. Remember that just because you are playing a break even game doesn’t mean that you won’t go broke. In fact, unless you are playing with an advantage then you are guaranteed to go broke at some point. If you’re really worried about losing your bankroll then you should want to play with the biggest advantage you can. Playing conservatively might feel safer in the short run but you’re pretty much sealing your fate.

If you’re just playing for fun then don’t worry about it. You’re doing fine. Learn how to get all the comps you can and don’t worry about losing your money. If you’re playing a losing or break even game then you’ll lose your money no matter what system you use.

-Sonny-

 

[SilentBob420BMFJ]

A good level 2 system like Zen or Revere Advanced Point Count will work great for that.



But it is bad for Wonging. You still need a system with a good BC so that you know when to leave the table. That is where the majority of your advantage is coming from so BC should be very important to you.



That’s a tough situation. Remember that just because you are playing a break even game doesn’t mean that you won’t go broke. In fact, unless you are playing with an advantage then you are guaranteed to go broke at some point. If you’re really worried about losing your bankroll then you should want to play with the biggest advantage you can. Playing conservatively might feel safer in the short run but you’re pretty much sealing your fate.

If you’re just playing for fun then don’t worry about it. You’re doing fine. Learn how to get all the comps you can and don’t worry about losing your money. If you’re playing a losing or break even game then you’ll lose your money no matter what system you use.

-Sonny-

ill put it this way, i want to be as serious and make as much money as i can with a $1000 bankroll.. if i spread even 1-4, i would most likely lose that bankroll much faster than if i didnt spread.. im so pissed that the majestic star stopped the $3 tables back in winter, otherwise i would be spreading like 1-3.. i just think that wonging + insurance + a few indices could get me near even, then throw in comps and im ahead.. let me ask this tho, if i play only when the RUNNING count is positive (hi-lo), and i play basic strategy, how much would that cut off from a .43% house edge on 6 decks? are we talking more than .1%?

 

[chichow]

Honestly I think you may be too close. I mean even if you talk about a .1 diff, what happens if you make even one mistake an hour.

Can you get your bankroll up to 2000 before playing more?

 

[SilentBob420BMFJ]

Honestly I think you may be too close. I mean even if you talk about a .1 diff, what happens if you make even one mistake an hour.

Can you get your bankroll up to 2000 before playing more?

remember, i play only when the running count is positive (tc of +1/6), which means the worst house edge i can possible play at is .35% (i detailed how i got that in another post).. and i think people misunderstand what i mean, i literally mean the casinos i play at will let me go out for 5 hands, in for 2, out for 3, in for 1, out for 4, in for 3, out for 9, in for 7, all day, but im sure if i played only at true count of +2, then they might say something as i would hardly be playing at all, and im getting comps as if ive been playing the entire time im pretty sure.. anyways back to your question.. im playing with money i can and cant lose, its hard to explain.. my parents are supporting me (food, insurance, gas, etc), im gonna need a new car soon, and my dad would let me pay him back for the car, but alls i have in my bank account right now is like $1500, and i make about $600/month, so put that all into perspective.. so its like, i will live the same lifestyle regardless, but at the same time ive never had more than $4000 in my entire life (i would have like $10k right now but i got a dui), and it would be nice to be able to pay my dad some money, which i was doing but i told him it would be better if i saved up for a car.. see how it is? so ya, i could play as if i had a bankroll of $2000, but once you go down 2k, its gonna take a long time for you to get that back, and you risk going even further

 

[Sonny]

my parents are supporting me (food, insurance, gas, etc), im gonna need a new car soon, and my dad would let me pay him back for the car, but alls i have in my bank account right now is like $1500, and i make about $600/month

To be honest, it really sounds like you’re not in a position to be gambling at all. If the money is that important to you then you should be saving it. My advice is to keep studying BJ, keep working, pay off your debt and get a comfortable savings account. By the time you get a good sized bankroll you will be a much better player too. You will feel more confident and you will not be worried about making mistakes or losing money.

-Sonny-

 

[Kasi]

:grin:

remember, i play only when the running count is positive (tc of +1/6), which means the worst house edge i can possible play at is .35% (i detailed how i got that in another post).. and i think people misunderstand what i mean, i literally mean the casinos i play at will let me go out for 5 hands, in for 2, out for 3, in for 1, out for 4, in for 3, out for 9, in for 7, all day, but im sure if i played only at true count of +2, then they might say something as i would hardly be playing at all, and im getting comps as if ive been playing the entire time im pretty sure.. anyways back to your question.. im playing with money i can and cant lose, its hard to explain.. my parents are supporting me (food, insurance, gas, etc), im gonna need a new car soon, and my dad would let me pay him back for the car, but alls i have in my bank account right now is like $1500, and i make about $600/month, so put that all into perspective.. so its like, i will live the same lifestyle regardless, but at the same time ive never had more than $4000 in my entire life (i would have like $10k right now but i got a dui), and it would be nice to be able to pay my dad some money, which i was doing but i told him it would be better if i saved up for a car.. see how it is? so ya, i could play as if i had a bankroll of $2000, but once you go down 2k, its gonna take a long time for you to get that back, and you risk going even further

Ok Bob, here it is.

Sonny gives great advice in the above post.

Like he does pretty much does all the time, in case you haven't realized it.

You have to make up your mind whether you knowingly play a game that guarantees you will lose all your money eventually, even if you do reduce the house edge by whatever or however. The end result is more certain than whether the sun will rise in the east tomorrow. You will lose your 100 units.

Or, commit your bankroll to a positive EV game and play it in a way that gives you a chance of winning money.

I do believe that even in a $10 min game, with a $1K roll, it is possible to actually have a positive EV, even flat-betting, as several others have suggested.

Look into flat-betting a shoe but only entering at TC+3. Any less, leave. Or even TC+2.

Adjust your entering bet according to the risk you are willing to take. (That means buy a sim or at least have a darn good idea of what you want to do betting exactly what game how)

Sure, your win rate will not be as much as spreading 12-1 or whatever but it will be a percentage of that.

I'm thinking a 100-unit roll might support either choice. But make up your own mind because I'm not betting your money.

The point is you actually might make a couple bucks an hour if you do it right.

Not to mention you will likely have spent many more hours in a casino than you would have flat-betting some game than you maybe would have if you had merely cut the HA to 0.2% instead of 0.4%.

No, you won't be a millionaire when you're 30 but you liklely won't have lost the same $1K roll 7 times over either.

Boo-hoo - you might only play a few hands an hour as you have said, fewer entering at TC+3 than TC+2.

But they will quite possibly be profitable hours.

You want a profitable game by only flat-betting?

There it is.

But, basically, like Sonny said, hold off a few years, practice, learn, have fun, etc, but get on with your life because I don't think an extra $2/hr (and that's probably alot) is gonna change your life in any meaningful way.

Especially compared to the very likely and very real devastation of losing basically every dime you have.

Or just be like me - just spout silly theory and piss people like you off, not really caring that much what they think or even if it's ultimately good advice or not :grin:

Hasn't cost me a dime yet

 

[SilentBob420BMFJ]

:grin:

Ok Bob, here it is.

Sonny gives great advice in the above post.

Like he does pretty much does all the time, in case you haven't realized it.

You have to make up your mind whether you knowingly play a game that guarantees you will lose all your money eventually, even if you do reduce the house edge by whatever or however. The end result is more certain than whether the sun will rise in the east tomorrow. You will lose your 100 units.

Or, commit your bankroll to a positive EV game and play it in a way that gives you a chance of winning money.

I do believe that even in a $10 min game, with a $1K roll, it is possible to actually have a positive EV, even flat-betting, as several others have suggested.

Look into flat-betting a shoe but only entering at TC+3. Any less, leave. Or even TC+2.

Adjust your entering bet according to the risk you are willing to take. (That means buy a sim or at least have a darn good idea of what you want to do betting exactly what game how)

Sure, your win rate will not be as much as spreading 12-1 or whatever but it will be a percentage of that.

I'm thinking a 100-unit roll might support either choice. But make up your own mind because I'm not betting your money.

The point is you actually might make a couple bucks an hour if you do it right.

Not to mention you will likely have spent many more hours in a casino than you would have flat-betting some game than you maybe would have if you had merely cut the HA to 0.2% instead of 0.4%.

No, you won't be a millionaire when you're 30 but you liklely won't have lost the same $1K roll 7 times over either.

Boo-hoo - you might only play a few hands an hour as you have said, fewer entering at TC+3 than TC+2.

But they will quite possibly be profitable hours.

You want a profitable game by only flat-betting?

There it is.

But, basically, like Sonny said, hold off a few years, practice, learn, have fun, etc, but get on with your life because I don't think an extra $2/hr (and that's probably alot) is gonna change your life in any meaningful way.

Especially compared to the very likely and very real devastation of losing basically every dime you have.

Or just be like me - just spout silly theory and piss people like you off, not really caring that much what they think or even if it's ultimately good advice or not :grin:

Hasn't cost me a dime yet

you dont gamble then? wtf..

you seem to think playing at a positive guarantees you something, it guarantees nothing, and in the short run, with a $1000 bankroll, your advantage hardly means anything if your spreading $10-$60..

do you even know where your advantage comes from? double downs and splits, not winning more hands, and how many times have you gone like 10 shoes with only like 5 double downs? well thats all it takes to wipe me out.. if i lose 8 double downs with my max bet out, IM DONE..

what would you rather do, bet $3 flat with a $1000 bankroll and a -.1% house edge, or bet $10-$100 with a $1000 bankroll and a +1% edge.. if you say the latter, your a complete moron, and would lose your money in 1 hour.. now you see the predicament im in! if you still dont get it, its very simple, would you rather lose your bankroll in 100 hours due to negative edge (btw i play at a small advantage, so im fine) or due to variance in 20 hours?

play only at TC +3? do you have any idea how often that happens? about 5% of the time.. anybody who goes to a casino to play 1 hand per shoe has A LOT of time on their hands, and loves to sit and watch cards being dealt.. dont get me wrong tho, i am not frustrated or bored counting cards, i like it, but i would like to play at least 30% of the hands..

you said one thing that is dead on and i want everybody to read.. "get on with your life because I don't think an extra $2/hr is gonna change your life in any meaningful way." EXACTLY, so whats the big deal if you EV is -$1 or +$1, as long as its around zero, and your having fun, then its fine! why is everybody acting like unless your playing with a 1000% advantage, that you might as well play basic strategy and get comps? if i keep doing what i am doing right now (only play when rc is +, use 13 hi-lo indexes, flat bet, get good comps) i will make a few bucks if the variance doesnt get me, and if i do get killed by the variance, then i will say to myself "good thing you didnt spread!"

one more thing, how often does everybody play on here? (i think i will start a poll on it) because i play about 5 hours per week (actually putting bets down probably 2 hours a week due to wonging), and sometimes i get bored and skip a week, so its not like i play 100 hours a month, so this $1000 bankroll will last a long time for me.. btw this bankroll is more about a want than a need, in that i dont want to lose risk it, and i would be very upset if i lost it because i everybody on here was saying "go for it!".. but overall, i agree, with a $1000 bankroll, i shouldnt be playing $10 blackjack (no matter my advantage), which is my entire point of why spreading would just make it worse, even if i hit a positive swing and got up to $2000..

so forget about negative EV talk, because im playing at a positive, so we can ignore all that negative talk which i was sick of, cuz some of it sounded like ploppy logic.. if you want to debate something, debate $10 flat bet with ~+.2% advantage vs $10-$20 with ~+.4% advantage (assume only playing at counts over zero in everything i talk about, which i assume others do also).. you can rule out a spread like 1-6, because you would get killed even a with a $2000 bankroll with $10-$60, unless you hit a huge positive swing, but thats what its all about, chance, which is another reason i like jacks or better video poker, because it has very low volatility (if your thinking "i thot video poker has high volatility" your thinking about games like double double bonus which have insane volatility), and actually, there is a quarter progressive FULL PAY (9/6) jacks or better machine at the horseshoe in gary indiana, which is rare these days, and i calculated on vpsm it has a house edge of -.3% (royal was at $1100) which is very good for vp these days.. besides, video poker is way more fun than blackjack, but i go for the better EV, even if it has higher volatility (but i do draw the line when it comes to how much im betting (spreading))

also, yes i would like a sim, but i dont know which one, and im not sure spending $100 on one would be worth it, altho i would really really like a good sim that can sim all the things i talk about.. any ideas? perhaps i could get a torrent of one and get a crack for it

 

[Dyepaintball12]

Isn't a flat-betting counter an oxymoron?

 

[Sonny]

what would you rather do, bet $3 flat with a $1000 bankroll and a -.1% house edge, or bet $10-$100 with a $1000 bankroll and a +1% edge.

As I said before, I would rather spread $5-$20 with a 5% ROR. If there were no $5 tables then I would spread $10-$25 and Wong in at a higher count to keep a 5% ROR. If you want to last in this game, you have to play smart.

would you rather lose your bankroll in 100 hours due to negative edge (btw i play at a small advantage, so im fine) or due to variance in 20 hours?

What difference does it make? If your goal is to lose your entire bankroll then bet it all on one hand. Your odds of success will be much better than waiting for the house to grind you down. I would at least want to give myself the chance of winning, even if I went broke trying. I just wouldn’t feel good about giving away my bankroll without a fight.

And by the way, you're going to lose it all due to variance anyway. As I said before, the variance will be about the same for either strategy. You'll be experiencing the same streaks either way so you might as well play with an advantage.

but overall, i agree, with a $1000 bankroll, i shouldnt be playing $10 blackjack (no matter my advantage), which is my entire point of why spreading would just make it worse, even if i hit a positive swing and got up to $2000.

But spreading your bets will give you a higher EV and lower ROR if you do it properly. We’ve been through this already.

And if you agree that you shouldn't be play BJ at all, why is this thread still going on?

so forget about negative EV talk, because im playing at a positive, so we can ignore all that negative talk which i was sick of, cuz some of it sounded like ploppy logic.

Are you sure you have a +EV?

you can rule out a spread like 1-6, because you would get killed even a with a $2000 bankroll with $10-$60, unless you hit a huge positive swing

I played with a $2k bankroll, a $5-$40 spread and a 2% ROR for almost a year. It certainly wasn’t glamorous, but I was making 2-3 units per hour. It can be done.

which is another reason i like jacks or better video poker, because it has very low volatility (if your thinking "i thot video poker has high volatility" your thinking about games like double double bonus which have insane volatility)

Are you sure about that? You expect to get a blackjack every 21 hands. In JoB you expect a royal flush about every 3,500 hands. Until you get that royal you’re playing at a –EV. Even if the variance is lower, the game is more likely to grind you down.

so whats the big deal if you EV is -$1 or +$1, as long as its around zero, and your having fun, then its fine! why is everybody acting like unless your playing with a 1000% advantage, that you might as well play basic strategy and get comps?

Because we are Advantage Players. You asked us for advice and you’re getting it. If you don’t like the advice we’re giving you then don’t post in the Card Counting forum. If you’re just looking for a slow way to lose your bankroll then post in the General or Voodoo forum. If you come to the Card Counter forum and ask a question, you’re going to get AP answers.

Look, it’s your money to gamble with so you have to make your own decisions. We’ve given you all the advice we can. If you decide to play with an advantage then we’ve told you everything you need to know. If you want to cut the house edge in half then we’ve told you everything you need to know. If you want to just play for fun and comps then we’ve told you everything you need to know. Now it’s time to sit down, think about it and make a plan.

-Sonny-

 

[Bashful C. Stupid-Butt]

You guys are talking Chinese her, and I don't mean Wong. To me PE is physical education, and PV is photovoltic, ie, solar panels. This is what I was feeling reading the archives. It read to me like there's a lot of chatter upstairs. If you have the count of the cards, and the money to cover your next bet, what does all this other stuff have to do with the game?

I'm really not here looking for new advice, I just joined to tell my story add my experience, and to aknowledge the host for his hosting and effort providing a reasonable ground to hold a debate and exchange information.

 

[Beast]

Hi,

If you are wonging in I assume you are counting and wonging in on only the positive counts? With this assumption it seems obvioius to me that BC is the most important for you as it determines the hands you will play. Defending the hands you play comes later . The most important thing is to get the money down at the best time. Agreed Hi-Lo has a dismal PE, but unless you want to go to a much harder system like the Zen you would be better off sticking to the Hi-Lo which is a great count for wonging in and out.

Good luck.

Beast

 

[Kasi]

you dont gamble then? wtf..

Guess it depends how u define "gamble".

So, yes, I rarely gamble if you define it as playing with negative expectation.

On the other hand, I haven't worked at a real job in 9 years playing BJ almost exclusively, preferring to be the casino with the HA and they the ploppy guaranteed to lose.

As to the rest, on how to perhaps to play your bankroll at a +EV, I think I clearly see now how it was just a suggestion from a complete moron who has no idea where my advantage comes from or how many hands will occur at TC +3 and how much of your bankroll to bet at that count. Bloody miracle I lasted more than an hour.

So, sincerely, good luck gambling.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink lol.

 

[Kasi]

Isn't a flat-betting counter an oxymoron?

Absolutely not.

 

[sagefr0g]

Guess it depends how u define "gamble".

So, yes, I rarely gamble if you define it as playing with negative expectation.

On the other hand, I haven't worked at a real job in 9 years playing BJ almost exclusively, preferring to be the casino with the HA and they the ploppy guaranteed to lose.

As to the rest, on how to perhaps to play your bankroll at a +EV, I think I clearly see now how it was just a suggestion from a complete moron who has no idea where my advantage comes from or how many hands will occur at TC +3 and how much of your bankroll to bet at that count. Bloody miracle I lasted more than an hour.

So, sincerely, good luck gambling.

You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyepaintball12
Isn't a flat-betting counter an oxymoron?

Absolutely not..

Kasi you are an enigma....
reason i say that is i keep thinking back to this post:
http://www.blackjackinfo.com/bb/showpost.php?p=32765&postcount=1

too me thats close to how SilentBob wants to play it... uhm sort of

but i'm wondering have those been nine years you've been playing it that way and ringing in a profit? pretty good if so. well i guess i missed that you've been betting up a couple three units or so since the post was confessions of a flat betting counter.

well anyway i think SilentBob could play it that way if he could just only get himself into a position where his bankroll was replenishible.