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Thank you for providing such a nice training game, it is very informative and a valuable training tool.
I do find the screen difficult to see as the contrast seems to be on the weak side. Other than that one minor issue your game is excellent.
You also didn’t factor in the 3/2 payoff on a blackjack that can be the streak ender. If you bet, say $640 after your 6th loss in a row and hit a blackjack, you make $330, not $10. Also, since double-downs and most splits are in your favor, while you certainly need a much bigger bankroll for the possibility that you’ll get deal an 11 when the dealer has a 6, those hands also put the odds in your favor when you have the most money on the table.
You have a 1/20 prob. of being dealt a blackjack w only a 1/25 chance (assuming 8-deck shoe) of having your blackjack pushed. Suppose you are playing a 13 loss Martingale, then that means you will have 200 strings that end with you getting a blackjack and making $10 plus your bet on the string. Simply counting $10 profit on every string ending in a loss and multiplying by the number of times you can expect to win and then subtracting by the total lost win you do run through the string is incorrect. Perhaps, you can figure the math using martingale relative to expected losses while figuring in the mathematics of a 3/2 payoff on the probability of each length string ended by a blackjack?
You’re right. I ignored blackjacks in this simplified comparison, just like I ignored doubles and splits. The math gets quite a bit messier, although I suppose it would fairly easy to account for only the blackjacks. The conclusion is however unavoidable. In blackjack, your expected loss is the total of your bets times the house edge, unless you vary your bets based on the deck composition instead of some scheme based on a string of wins or losses. No progression can change that fact. Feel free to work it out in laborious detail if that interests you. It doesn’t interest me.
Leyendo todo esto ahora mismo y debo hacer 2 preguntas:
1. Esto me parece obvio, pero en cualquier caso: Apostar con estas probabilidades y este poco dinero parece una pérdida de tiempo comparado con simplemente trabajar. Pero para mi si voy a un Casino quiero jugar con las mejores probabilidades al menos y tener alguna influencia sobre el juego asi que si.
Así que la pregunta: ¿Vale la pena, en tu opinión, invertir meses de tiempo aprendiendo y jugando al BlackJack por esa cantidad de dinero? (Si realmente es el dinero lo que quieres)
2. La pregunta más importante para mí: Todavía no he encontrado una mesa con <$10 y no estoy jugando con más de $100
Ya sé que'no es mucho, pero eso'es lo que (fácilmente) me sobra para jugar.
En la máquina con crupier en vivo el mínimo sería $5 pero no hay manera de contar ¿verdad? también el juego puede ser predeterminado de antemano. Así que la máquina isn't vale la pena ¿verdad?
Entonces como me aconsejarías manejar mi moneymanagement ya que jugar con un mínimo de $10 me llevaría a apuestas que ni siquiera podría'hacer si fuera 6 o mayor TC.
También: Los crupieres vuelven a barajar las barajas después de usar 1/2-1 baraja.
Siguiendo tu consejo yo'no estoy en condiciones de jugar al juego en absoluto en estas condiciones si lo he entendido todo correctamente.
Pero sinceramente no me puedo imaginar que todo el mundo que lea esto tenga una nómina lo suficientemente alta como para poder gastarse fácilmente $3000 (a lo que deberías estar dispuesto si empiezas este juego en serio si he entendido bien este artículo (o al menos algo en el entorno de $1000)).
Además, no puedo imaginar que la mayoría de los Casinos no barajen después de jugar la cantidad aproximada de cartas de una baraja.
(Al menos yo no he visto que ocurra).
Pregunta al margen: ¿Cómo puedo saber cuántas barajas se juegan, preguntar a la banca sería sospechoso no?
Estaré encantado de recibir cualquier consejo al respecto.
Por lo que a mi respecta me'ceñiré a jugar estrategia básica e intentaré verlo como un entretenimiento ya que no me veo ganando (o ganando lo suficiente) a largo plazo. Pero en aras de optimizar mi juego me'gustaría igualmente escuchar vuestros consejos 🙂 .
Hola.
Un casino local cercano tiene algunas reglas extrañas en este sentido: 6D, S17, doble cualquiera, re-dividir excepto As, doble después de dividir, no pico.
La rendición está permitida excepto contra As ya que no hay pico por parte del crupier. Me pregunto cómo debo configurar el motor de estrategia básica?. ¿Con rendición temprana o tardía?.
Ken, I greatly appreciate your insight. Tournament question: 20 hands, 5 players, top 2 advance. Starting bankroll 25k. Minimum bet 500. Quarterfinal round. I had a horrible run, losing 14 of the first 16 hands, plus a double down and both ends of a split. The best hand I had / made was 17. Anyway, On the 17th hand, I was down 9500. The other 4 players had over 30k each, so I went all in, received a 15 vs 9 and busted. Looking back, I’m wondering if going all in was the proper play, considering that things get crazy on the last few hands, and maybe I could’ve waited until the last 3 hands to make a move. The top 2 were advancing, so now I’m second guessing myself as to whether I could have snuck in there under the wire on the last hand. Did I make the right play? Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I don’t check in much here any more. These kinds of questions will get quicker answers over at BlackjackTournaments.com.
I will assume that you were around $20K bank, down $9500 from the other 4 players around $30K. With only 4 hands to go, it’s not at all unreasonable to go all in here, especially if most of the other players have small to medium size bets working. If on the other hand, they ALL bet big, I would make at least one more small bet.
But in this situation, you are very likely to need to win a big bet soon to have a shot. If they are giving you an opportunity to make up a lot of ground even if everyone at the table gets paid, take it.
No, the “doubling” indexes always mean double at or above the index. So in the case of 9 vs 2 in a 2DH17 game, double if the count is +1 or higher. If the count is zero or negative, just hit.
Indexes always mean one of these three things: Stand at or above the index, double at or above the index, and split at or above the index. Which one it means varies depending on the decision. It’s a bit confusing at first. If in doubt, check the instruction pages here which show exactly when each applies. Once you get the idea, it gets easier.
You also may be confused by why basic strategy says “Double” for 9v2, yet the index is +1 for doubling. The explanation is pretty simple. Your hand includes two small cards and the dealer upcard is a small card. Therefore, off the top of a fresh shuffle, you’re already at +1, so basic strategy says double despite needing a “+1” to do so.
Almost. Hit when the count is worse than -3. At the index, you double.
The best way to phrase this is “double at -3 or better, else hit”.
Double at -3, -2, -1, zero, and all positive counts.
¿Por qué no haces 7 = +1 (REKO o K-O), lo que aumentaría el BE a 98% y el PE a 55% y mantendría el mismo nivel de dificultad/facilidad para contar? ¿Son BC y BE 2 cosas diferentes?
I can’t recall if these indexes are mentioned in the GameMaster’s lessons, but yes, it’s a useful strategy variation to know.
In 6D H17, split at +2 or better.
My advancecd cards include for the other rules/decks.
I was told by a casino dealer in Vegas that those ShuffleMaster machines shuffle the cards Numericly ! Hmm, Food for thought. Any reaction are appreciated. Thanks
Thank you for providing such a nice training game, it is very informative and a valuable training tool.
I do find the screen difficult to see as the contrast seems to be on the weak side. Other than that one minor issue your game is excellent.
You also didn’t factor in the 3/2 payoff on a blackjack that can be the streak ender. If you bet, say $640 after your 6th loss in a row and hit a blackjack, you make $330, not $10. Also, since double-downs and most splits are in your favor, while you certainly need a much bigger bankroll for the possibility that you’ll get deal an 11 when the dealer has a 6, those hands also put the odds in your favor when you have the most money on the table.
You have a 1/20 prob. of being dealt a blackjack w only a 1/25 chance (assuming 8-deck shoe) of having your blackjack pushed. Suppose you are playing a 13 loss Martingale, then that means you will have 200 strings that end with you getting a blackjack and making $10 plus your bet on the string. Simply counting $10 profit on every string ending in a loss and multiplying by the number of times you can expect to win and then subtracting by the total lost win you do run through the string is incorrect. Perhaps, you can figure the math using martingale relative to expected losses while figuring in the mathematics of a 3/2 payoff on the probability of each length string ended by a blackjack?
You’re right. I ignored blackjacks in this simplified comparison, just like I ignored doubles and splits. The math gets quite a bit messier, although I suppose it would fairly easy to account for only the blackjacks. The conclusion is however unavoidable. In blackjack, your expected loss is the total of your bets times the house edge, unless you vary your bets based on the deck composition instead of some scheme based on a string of wins or losses. No progression can change that fact. Feel free to work it out in laborious detail if that interests you. It doesn’t interest me.
Leyendo todo esto ahora mismo y debo hacer 2 preguntas:
1. Esto me parece obvio, pero en cualquier caso: Apostar con estas probabilidades y este poco dinero parece una pérdida de tiempo comparado con simplemente trabajar. Pero para mi si voy a un Casino quiero jugar con las mejores probabilidades al menos y tener alguna influencia sobre el juego asi que si.
Así que la pregunta: ¿Vale la pena, en tu opinión, invertir meses de tiempo aprendiendo y jugando al BlackJack por esa cantidad de dinero? (Si realmente es el dinero lo que quieres)
2. La pregunta más importante para mí: Todavía no he encontrado una mesa con <$10 y no estoy jugando con más de $100
Ya sé que'no es mucho, pero eso'es lo que (fácilmente) me sobra para jugar.
En la máquina con crupier en vivo el mínimo sería $5 pero no hay manera de contar ¿verdad? también el juego puede ser predeterminado de antemano. Así que la máquina isn't vale la pena ¿verdad?
Entonces como me aconsejarías manejar mi moneymanagement ya que jugar con un mínimo de $10 me llevaría a apuestas que ni siquiera podría'hacer si fuera 6 o mayor TC.
También: Los crupieres vuelven a barajar las barajas después de usar 1/2-1 baraja.
Siguiendo tu consejo yo'no estoy en condiciones de jugar al juego en absoluto en estas condiciones si lo he entendido todo correctamente.
Pero sinceramente no me puedo imaginar que todo el mundo que lea esto tenga una nómina lo suficientemente alta como para poder gastarse fácilmente $3000 (a lo que deberías estar dispuesto si empiezas este juego en serio si he entendido bien este artículo (o al menos algo en el entorno de $1000)).
Además, no puedo imaginar que la mayoría de los Casinos no barajen después de jugar la cantidad aproximada de cartas de una baraja.
(Al menos yo no he visto que ocurra).
Pregunta al margen: ¿Cómo puedo saber cuántas barajas se juegan, preguntar a la banca sería sospechoso no?
Estaré encantado de recibir cualquier consejo al respecto.
Por lo que a mi respecta me'ceñiré a jugar estrategia básica e intentaré verlo como un entretenimiento ya que no me veo ganando (o ganando lo suficiente) a largo plazo. Pero en aras de optimizar mi juego me'gustaría igualmente escuchar vuestros consejos 🙂 .
Gracias.
Hola.
Un casino local cercano tiene algunas reglas extrañas en este sentido: 6D, S17, doble cualquiera, re-dividir excepto As, doble después de dividir, no pico.
La rendición está permitida excepto contra As ya que no hay pico por parte del crupier. Me pregunto cómo debo configurar el motor de estrategia básica?. ¿Con rendición temprana o tardía?.
Gracias por su respuesta... saludos...
40? Definitivamente no estás preparado
Before sitting at a table to play, what should I be looking for, or does it really matter
Ken, I greatly appreciate your insight. Tournament question: 20 hands, 5 players, top 2 advance. Starting bankroll 25k. Minimum bet 500. Quarterfinal round. I had a horrible run, losing 14 of the first 16 hands, plus a double down and both ends of a split. The best hand I had / made was 17. Anyway, On the 17th hand, I was down 9500. The other 4 players had over 30k each, so I went all in, received a 15 vs 9 and busted. Looking back, I’m wondering if going all in was the proper play, considering that things get crazy on the last few hands, and maybe I could’ve waited until the last 3 hands to make a move. The top 2 were advancing, so now I’m second guessing myself as to whether I could have snuck in there under the wire on the last hand. Did I make the right play? Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.
I don’t check in much here any more. These kinds of questions will get quicker answers over at BlackjackTournaments.com.
I will assume that you were around $20K bank, down $9500 from the other 4 players around $30K. With only 4 hands to go, it’s not at all unreasonable to go all in here, especially if most of the other players have small to medium size bets working. If on the other hand, they ALL bet big, I would make at least one more small bet.
But in this situation, you are very likely to need to win a big bet soon to have a shot. If they are giving you an opportunity to make up a lot of ground even if everyone at the table gets paid, take it.
I received my cards. I just want to be sure.
2 deck, DHS17
9 vs dealer 2 has a D and 1
this is double unless count is +1 then hit?
No, the “doubling” indexes always mean double at or above the index. So in the case of 9 vs 2 in a 2DH17 game, double if the count is +1 or higher. If the count is zero or negative, just hit.
Indexes always mean one of these three things: Stand at or above the index, double at or above the index, and split at or above the index. Which one it means varies depending on the decision. It’s a bit confusing at first. If in doubt, check the instruction pages here which show exactly when each applies. Once you get the idea, it gets easier.
You also may be confused by why basic strategy says “Double” for 9v2, yet the index is +1 for doubling. The explanation is pretty simple. Your hand includes two small cards and the dealer upcard is a small card. Therefore, off the top of a fresh shuffle, you’re already at +1, so basic strategy says double despite needing a “+1” to do so.
thank you
so keeping with the same rules as above, 9 vs 4 indicated to D (double) but has -3 which is translated to only hit at -3.
Scott
Almost. Hit when the count is worse than -3. At the index, you double.
The best way to phrase this is “double at -3 or better, else hit”.
Double at -3, -2, -1, zero, and all positive counts.
At first, this way of stating indexes and actions can seem needlessly confusing. To see why it is the standard, read this:
Learning Card Counting Indexes? Don’t Make this Mistake
¿Por qué no haces 7 = +1 (REKO o K-O), lo que aumentaría el BE a 98% y el PE a 55% y mantendría el mismo nivel de dificultad/facilidad para contar? ¿Son BC y BE 2 cosas diferentes?
Basado en: https://www.qfit.com/card-counting.htm
Is the empty field for 9,9 vs A correctly empty? I haven’t noticed any info here about potential deviance here.
I can’t recall if these indexes are mentioned in the GameMaster’s lessons, but yes, it’s a useful strategy variation to know.
In 6D H17, split at +2 or better.
My advancecd cards include for the other rules/decks.
You’re really kind of a nasty person, aren’t you?
If I play perfect basic strategy, can I win more often if I use a positive progression at the same time?
I was told by a casino dealer in Vegas that those ShuffleMaster machines shuffle the cards Numericly ! Hmm, Food for thought. Any reaction are appreciated. Thanks