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Late June: Tropicana and Excalibur each have at least ONE table with 3:2 with $15 min. Was wondering for people who insist on playing at a 6:5 game, is it better to double down a BJ against a dealer 4 or 5 with a positive count rather than taking the 6:5 payout?
The running count is simply an indicator of how many extra high cards or extra low cards remain in the unused decks. The true count normalizes this and becomes the number of extra high or low cards per deck remaining. The next few lessons will show you how to use this information to gain an advantage.
A continuous shuffler is where the dealer is constantly putting the used cards back into the shuffle machine after each hand. Cards can reappear very quickly.
Contrast that with a regular shuffle machine where the dealer finishes the entire shoe, and then puts the entire decks into the shuffle machine at once.
The latter is just a faster way of shuffling traditionally.
I know this term might seem like form the movie 21, but when is it best to bet high in single deck game? is it when the count is in the (+) or the (-)?
Bonjour Ken,
I just purchased your advanced card pack. Very nice quality and I love the “stealth” versions (after I actually *read* your instructions I figured out the dots. 😉 Two questions:
1. I haven’t tried them in a casino yet. Do you know if they frown upon the “stealth” versions, i.e. are they going to disallow them and force me to use the casino versions without any of your “hints”? ( Maybe I just have to give it a try and report back.)
2. on the back of the cards, in the key, for “D” it says “Double (else ” Is that a typo? Did I get a bad batch? What does it mean? The “DS” says “Double (else stand)” which I understand. Is there a word missing after the “else” in “D”? Thanks again.
I have had no reports of trouble using the stealth version in the casino so far. I will be interested to hear your experiences.
And yes, when preparing the card design I made a last minute font size change that caused the printing omission you describe. Doh!
The key for “D” should say “Double (else hit)”. Thanks for reminding me about that so I can be sure to fix it before the next reprint. Noted.
This page shows W/L/P percentages for when you double down on a hand, even when common sense shows that it would be foolish on many hands.
Doubling down on blackjack is an example of that. It’s a sure winner, 100%, if you stand. But when you double your bet and draw another card, now you can win, lose, or push.
I originally created this data because it can be very useful in tournament situations. Generally, it’s not useful to normal blackjack players, other than to get a feel for how the game behaves.
The Vegas Strip is becoming a tough place for lower limit players to play. 3:2 is alive and well, but you will likely need to either increase your bankroll for the higher limits, or look downtown instead.
That’s a popular question. If you play with a substantially smaller amount of money, the chances are quite high that you will run into a losing streak that will tap you out. Does that mean you shouldn’t play? Well, it depends on your tolerance for that happening. In truth, your “bankroll” is probably much higher than the actual cash you have on hand today, because you are likely willing to go back to your normal income and build up another starting bankroll if needed. Still, consider carefully how you would handle losing your entire bank. If that would be difficult to accept, you should probably wait until you have more money to begin.
If you choose to play, hopefully you’ll experience some early good luck and build your bank to a reasonable level by chance. If not, back to the drawing board. 🙂
Hi Ken:
Didn’t your web site have a link to a page that had a very long list of different rules and their overall effect, for example 5 cards automatically wins, double on any 3, etc? I remember the link said “i have more rules here”. It was a cool list.
Late June: Tropicana and Excalibur each have at least ONE table with 3:2 with $15 min. Was wondering for people who insist on playing at a 6:5 game, is it better to double down a BJ against a dealer 4 or 5 with a positive count rather than taking the 6:5 payout?
No. Taking the 6:5 is still far better than doubling the blackjack. See this article:
Double Down on a 6:5 Blackjack? Read This First…
Thanks for letting us know about the 3:2 games at Trop and Excalibur.
What does the running count/true count signify?
The running count is simply an indicator of how many extra high cards or extra low cards remain in the unused decks. The true count normalizes this and becomes the number of extra high or low cards per deck remaining. The next few lessons will show you how to use this information to gain an advantage.
What do you mean about Continuous shuffle machines and a regular shuffle machine? whats the difference?
A continuous shuffler is where the dealer is constantly putting the used cards back into the shuffle machine after each hand. Cards can reappear very quickly.
Contrast that with a regular shuffle machine where the dealer finishes the entire shoe, and then puts the entire decks into the shuffle machine at once.
The latter is just a faster way of shuffling traditionally.
I know this term might seem like form the movie 21, but when is it best to bet high in single deck game? is it when the count is in the (+) or the (-)?
Plus counts are good for the player.
Thanks for the help
Bonjour Ken,
I just purchased your advanced card pack. Very nice quality and I love the “stealth” versions (after I actually *read* your instructions I figured out the dots. 😉 Two questions:
1. I haven’t tried them in a casino yet. Do you know if they frown upon the “stealth” versions, i.e. are they going to disallow them and force me to use the casino versions without any of your “hints”? ( Maybe I just have to give it a try and report back.)
2. on the back of the cards, in the key, for “D” it says “Double (else ” Is that a typo? Did I get a bad batch? What does it mean? The “DS” says “Double (else stand)” which I understand. Is there a word missing after the “else” in “D”? Thanks again.
I have had no reports of trouble using the stealth version in the casino so far. I will be interested to hear your experiences.
And yes, when preparing the card design I made a last minute font size change that caused the printing omission you describe. Doh!
The key for “D” should say “Double (else hit)”. Thanks for reminding me about that so I can be sure to fix it before the next reprint. Noted.
thanks for your help this is a great site well done for making it
Thanks for visiting, and good luck on the tables!
I don’t understand your %’s for A,T. Shouldn’t it be 100% if the dealer already peaked and doesn’t have 21? Am I missing something?
This page shows W/L/P percentages for when you double down on a hand, even when common sense shows that it would be foolish on many hands.
Doubling down on blackjack is an example of that. It’s a sure winner, 100%, if you stand. But when you double your bet and draw another card, now you can win, lose, or push.
I originally created this data because it can be very useful in tournament situations. Generally, it’s not useful to normal blackjack players, other than to get a feel for how the game behaves.
The Monte Carlo had one DD table that was 3:2. Unfortunately it was $25 min 🙁
Is 3:2 on the verge of extinction?
The Vegas Strip is becoming a tough place for lower limit players to play. 3:2 is alive and well, but you will likely need to either increase your bankroll for the higher limits, or look downtown instead.
Hello Ken
One question : If I do not have that large amount of money in my bankroll should not play??
That’s a popular question. If you play with a substantially smaller amount of money, the chances are quite high that you will run into a losing streak that will tap you out. Does that mean you shouldn’t play? Well, it depends on your tolerance for that happening. In truth, your “bankroll” is probably much higher than the actual cash you have on hand today, because you are likely willing to go back to your normal income and build up another starting bankroll if needed. Still, consider carefully how you would handle losing your entire bank. If that would be difficult to accept, you should probably wait until you have more money to begin.
If you choose to play, hopefully you’ll experience some early good luck and build your bank to a reasonable level by chance. If not, back to the drawing board. 🙂
Hi Ken:
Didn’t your web site have a link to a page that had a very long list of different rules and their overall effect, for example 5 cards automatically wins, double on any 3, etc? I remember the link said “i have more rules here”. It was a cool list.
Just wondering
Cheers!