sagefr0g said:
did i miss anything of value from the closed pro thread?
It sort of falls under the critical thinking part, but be aware that people trying to sell you something are trying to sell you something. That motive often undermines their word, and so you have to be careful about them touting their own products or someone else's product, because they're ultimately only interested in personal gain. They don't care about you.
another question:
who the heck can afford to risk a 1:30 spread?
I can.
jack said:
I play the A02, and my author claims that with 1:4 spread in a single deck game i can have an advantage of up to 2% with favorable conditions[not ideal] on a dead even game.
Q: Does this mean that if i play the 6:5 [-1.5] i'll still have +.5 advantage.
If not, how much should i raise my betting INDICES and/or spread to compensate for this catastrophic rule. If at all?
note: I make a 2 unit bet @ +2 and 4 unit bet @ +3 w/1D remaining.
I make a 2 unit bet @ 0 and 4 unit bet @ +1 w/1/2 D remaining
p.s. Do the casinos consider these games unbeatable, Therefore allowing you to play more aggresively with less heat. I also use ace play adjustments to imorove the play of my hands.
It's not quite as straightforward as all that. For starters, good luck getting so-called favorable conditions even on a 6:5 game. They still tend to be Ro5 or Ro6, or sometimes even Ro4, which is really quite laughable, but that's how it is. Further, as the count goes up, the 6:5 payout on naturals is costing you more. So, a +1 to the count does not increase your edge as much as a +1 to the count in a standard single deck game would. So, not only do you start out with a bigger initial house edge to overcome, the value of an increase in the count is worth less and, as such, the spread you will need to employ to obtain a positive advantage is high. So high, in fact, that I don't recommend playing these games. They still draw more heat than a shoe at, say, a 1-20 spread or more.
ZenFan said:
I'm intrigued by this "card-steering" as you've previously described. Would you please give us a rundown of the basic concept and application, and perhaps an estimate of the likely available edge?
Much appreciated! zf
The most basic idea is mastering the n-card cut. In shoes, this is typically something along the lines of a 52-card cut and in single deck games, it's generally something between 13 and 17, depending on what you're trying to accomplish. There are two methods to this technique: the aim and cut or the cut and judge. In the former, you practice hitting the mark every time. In the latter, you practice being able to tell exactly how many cards you've cut after you've cut it. The professional employs both methods simultaneously. First trying to hit the mark and then judging to see if he did. You must practice them separately and then integrate them into one technique. The value of this comes from seeing the bottom card after the deck has been shuffled. You will find that this happens in nearly casino in the United States, by at least one dealer and sometimes by virtually all of them.
This is a physical technique in addition to a mental one. It will require that you tap into your kinesthetic awareness and memory, and that goes beyond the purely mental exercise of counting cards that lies squarely in many of our comfort zones. It requires, in effect, "turning your mind off" and trusting your hand and your eye. Take a Zen approach. You will be amazed at how consistent and precise you can get.
ZenFan said:
Well, if you bet $10min to 2x$100max, and you bet in neg-EV counts only every other hand, then your effective spread is 1-40. zf
Cell phone sit out tricks and other methods of one-table wonging are cute, but they're not practical on a sustained scale. Sure, you can get yourself out of an atrocious count every now and then, but this should not be some sort of bread and butter technique.
sagefr0g said:
so Craps Master you can beat craps also right? i know your not going to give that information up. so ok then just post a bit about it. shed a little theory that it is possible, legally.
I have no free advice to offer about craps, except that there are only two pieces of literature worth a damn on that subject, and Wong's book and Scoblette's book aren't them.
shadroch said:
CM,
If you were to recommend one book to a total newbie,which would it be?
As was predicted, I recommend
Blackbelt in Blackjack.
QFIT said:
I believe he suggested 1 to 3x30 or more (1-90 spread) at six decks. 1 to 2x15 ( 1-30 spread) at double deck. Playing black chips, 6 deck, S17, DAS, LS with a 1-90 spread and with one-third Kelly would require a bit over half a million bankroll and might bring a bit of attention. That's betting optimally with max bet at +6 for HiLo. The betting would still be very erratic to ramp up that quickly. If you ramp up slowly; you'll barey ever make a max bet and your win rate will tumble. You won't really be betting 1-90. With a hit and run style; you can certainly look like a gambler 'changing his stakes' if the count swings very high and bet very heavily above your one unit bet. But, you'll have to leave after the shoe and may have trouble returning after they look at the tapes.
And so you see the power. The bettor with the $10 min can pull it off with a $50,000 BR. The $5 min better with $25,000. Throw some wonging in there if you're a bonafide low-roller, and you can get your BR requirement down to $10,000 or less. But we also see here the non-professional's opinion about the reality of casino conditions. He thinks it will only work for one shoe. I
know that with intelligent methods of heat deflection (the whale in the pit trick, for one), this kind of spread can be pulled off all night long.
EasyRhino said:
Crappie, two questions for you:
1) Player's cards ever: yes or no?
2) If yes, multiple or single identities?
There is no definite yes or no to the first question. It depends on what you're up to. If you do elect to use a player's card, because you would like to look the part of the high roller more and would actually like to save some money on rooms and meals and so forth, then, yes, having different identities at different establishments is a good way to go. It'll make it harder for you to get nabbed a lot of places based on your play at one place. If you anticipate a long-term relationship with a casino where you'll be a relative high-roller, a player's card is a must these days. Sure, you can blow it off, but it eventually looks bad, and once the pit knows you anyway, you're not really saving yourself very much in the way of trackability and exposure. If you're going for the quick hit and run method and not returning to the same place much, you can do without.
If you do go for the player's card approach, just be sure to manufacture losses on it so the eventual net win doesn't give you away as someone playing with a positive edge. Are you all aware of how manufacturing a loss is done?
QFIT said:
Depends on what you mean by "unit."
But yes you could surely bet $10-$900. Only someone playing $10-$900 may look even more suspicious than $100-$9,000. (When's the last time you saw someone bet $10-$900?) You would have to play at a $10 table. (Unfortunately these tables often have less beneficial rules. And the table will often have more players slowing you down.) You would bet $10 70-75% of hands. Optimally, you would jump to $200 16% of hands. Your play would scream card counter even with a great act.
If the floor and the eye aren't watching, and if the dealer doesn't know how to count cards (easily determined after getting a little info about him or her), then who cares if you look like a card counter? If you must, you can sacrifice a little optimality by taking on extra variance by bouncing your bets around erratically in neutral counts.