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Voir http://www.qfit.com/card-counting.htm for a list of systems with BC, PE, and IC numbers.
You can also calculate these numbers for any system here: Card Counting Efficiency Calculator
For advanced counts (although you really don’t need one, honestly), I prefer Wong’s Halves at BC .99 and PE .56.
Il y a de nombreuses années, j'ai été engagé par l'une des équipes bancaires pour calculer la stratégie et le rendement optimaux du Blackjack californien.
Mais je ne sais même pas si j'ai encore le rapport, et surtout, je parie que les règles du jeu ne sont plus tout à fait les mêmes.
if more people are at the table and they draw cards out, wouldn’t that change the percentage or odds of me using the practiced chart? if it says hit on a certain hand but 3 people were ahead of me. i don’t understand how that wouldn’t change my odds or change my betting style.
Other players at the table don’t change your strategy on average, meaning that basic strategy is still the optimal way to play the hand without considering the cards already in play. However, it is true that the specific cards being dealt can change the optimal decision if you are able to take them into account. The easiest way to do that is to use a card counting system and strategy variation index numbers.
For a basic strategy player, the game should be played identically whether you are a heads-up against the dealer, or at a full table of awful players. And your expected loss will be identical in both cases, with the significant difference that a full tables will be slower, and therefore less expensive over the same amount of time.
Usually the casino is using several decks so a few cards do not do much to change the odds. The only way that
can happen is if you have counted cards and it is getting close to the end of the shoe.
makes sense to an extent. another thing. when your changing the rules to meet my area of casinos, does the advice change automatically with charts and explanations to meet my rules?
For the Basic Strategy Engine, yes, the charts are optimized for the rules you pick. Similarly, in our Strategy Trainer, the advice is customized for the exact rules. The lessons in the school don’t have an option to customize the rules, though several variations are discussed in the lessons themselves.
Doubling down gives a chance to double the amount of your bet after seeing your first two cards. For that privilege, you’ll give up the ability to draw more than one card, but in many cases, it’s a great deal. You mentioned a hand with a total of 10 in the first two cards. If the dealer has a 2 through 9 up, you should double down because you’re a big favorite to win the hand.
KEN
I HAVE BEEN TRAINNING WITH YOUR SITE. I HAVE PRETTY MUCH MASTERED BASIC STATIGIES. IN YOUR SYSTEM IT IS IN HEADS UP FORMAT. I AM NEW AT THIS SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME. WOULD I USE THE SAME SYSTEM WITH SEVERAL PLAYERS AT MY TABLE.
Fortunately, other players at the table do not change the strategy at all. Whether playing heads up or at a full table, basic strategy is the best way to play each hand without using any further information about the remaining deck composition.
Card counting is a tool to give you an edge over the dealer. The tool can never beat the dealer- only you can beat the dealer using the tool effectively. You need to have discipline in order to use your tool effectively.
I assume you are asking why basic strategy says to hit 16vT, but Hi-Lo strategy is to stand when the count is zero (or better). Well, 16vT is a very close call in basic strategy. If you’re dealt (T,6) vs T off the top of a freshly shuffled shoe, notice that the running count is actually -1 now. That’s enough to swing the decision. That is why basic strategy says to hit, even though the card counting index is zero. Yes, it’s a common point of confusion.
It gets even crazier when you look at the confusing possibility when surrender is available. See 16vT.
thanks- great clarity and information. A last question- basic strategy (6 Decks, S17, DA2, DAS, No surrender) says hit 16 vs 10, but here the variation is to stand on it once the count is zero or higher. Can you explain this just a bit? Everything else I’ve read on blackjack confirms your basic strategy chart.
Thanks again
Ben
I just came back from Vegas and I could not find a game on the strip that paid 3:2 for less than a $25 minimum.
However, found plenty downtown with $5-15 buy-ins that pay 3:2.
El cortez has a double-deck game that’s face up with about a 75% deck penetration that pays 3:2.
Make sure you have the right direction of decisions here…
With really bad counts of -5 or worse you should hit (even if surrender is allowed). Because of the bad count, you have a better chance of hitting without busting, although that is offset by the fact that the dealer is also less likely to bust.
At counts of -4 to just under zero, it’s better to hit than stand, but both are worse than surrender’s guaranteed loss of half your bet. So if allowed, surrender.
Once you get to true zero or a plus count, standing becomes better than hitting, but again both are inferior to surrender if it is available. I assume much of that loss rate is due to the increased chance the dealer has a pat hand in plus counts.
Most of my play has been in two-deck games without surrender available, so I rarely played games where I could use dual indexes with one for surrender and one for hit/stand. As a result, I actually never bothered learning the surrender indexes!
Thanks for the reply; can you explain why the -4 makes it favourable to surrender as opposed to hit? I thought a lower count would increase the player’s chances of getting winning hand.
Thanks so much!
B
Which counting actually rates at 98% BE 70%PE?
Voir http://www.qfit.com/card-counting.htm for a list of systems with BC, PE, and IC numbers.
You can also calculate these numbers for any system here:
Card Counting Efficiency Calculator
For advanced counts (although you really don’t need one, honestly), I prefer Wong’s Halves at BC .99 and PE .56.
Avez-vous des informations sur la façon de battre le blackjack californien ? Par exemple, quand mettre le jeu en banque ?
Il y a de nombreuses années, j'ai été engagé par l'une des équipes bancaires pour calculer la stratégie et le rendement optimaux du Blackjack californien.
Mais je ne sais même pas si j'ai encore le rapport, et surtout, je parie que les règles du jeu ne sont plus tout à fait les mêmes.
if more people are at the table and they draw cards out, wouldn’t that change the percentage or odds of me using the practiced chart? if it says hit on a certain hand but 3 people were ahead of me. i don’t understand how that wouldn’t change my odds or change my betting style.
Other players at the table don’t change your strategy on average, meaning that basic strategy is still the optimal way to play the hand without considering the cards already in play. However, it is true that the specific cards being dealt can change the optimal decision if you are able to take them into account. The easiest way to do that is to use a card counting system and strategy variation index numbers.
For a basic strategy player, the game should be played identically whether you are a heads-up against the dealer, or at a full table of awful players. And your expected loss will be identical in both cases, with the significant difference that a full tables will be slower, and therefore less expensive over the same amount of time.
Usually the casino is using several decks so a few cards do not do much to change the odds. The only way that
can happen is if you have counted cards and it is getting close to the end of the shoe.
makes sense to an extent. another thing. when your changing the rules to meet my area of casinos, does the advice change automatically with charts and explanations to meet my rules?
For the Basic Strategy Engine, yes, the charts are optimized for the rules you pick. Similarly, in our Strategy Trainer, the advice is customized for the exact rules. The lessons in the school don’t have an option to customize the rules, though several variations are discussed in the lessons themselves.
i dont understand the double…sounds stupid please explain..i had 10 total..says it recomends going double other than a hit…dont get it..need help
Doubling down gives a chance to double the amount of your bet after seeing your first two cards. For that privilege, you’ll give up the ability to draw more than one card, but in many cases, it’s a great deal. You mentioned a hand with a total of 10 in the first two cards. If the dealer has a 2 through 9 up, you should double down because you’re a big favorite to win the hand.
For a full explanation of doubling, see Blackjack Rules: Part 3 – Player Choices
KEN
I HAVE BEEN TRAINNING WITH YOUR SITE. I HAVE PRETTY MUCH MASTERED BASIC STATIGIES. IN YOUR SYSTEM IT IS IN HEADS UP FORMAT. I AM NEW AT THIS SO PLEASE BARE WITH ME. WOULD I USE THE SAME SYSTEM WITH SEVERAL PLAYERS AT MY TABLE.
Fortunately, other players at the table do not change the strategy at all. Whether playing heads up or at a full table, basic strategy is the best way to play each hand without using any further information about the remaining deck composition.
Card counting is a tool to give you an edge over the dealer. The tool can never beat the dealer- only you can beat the dealer using the tool effectively. You need to have discipline in order to use your tool effectively.
I assume you are asking why basic strategy says to hit 16vT, but Hi-Lo strategy is to stand when the count is zero (or better). Well, 16vT is a very close call in basic strategy. If you’re dealt (T,6) vs T off the top of a freshly shuffled shoe, notice that the running count is actually -1 now. That’s enough to swing the decision. That is why basic strategy says to hit, even though the card counting index is zero. Yes, it’s a common point of confusion.
It gets even crazier when you look at the confusing possibility when surrender is available. See 16vT.
thanks- great clarity and information. A last question- basic strategy (6 Decks, S17, DA2, DAS, No surrender) says hit 16 vs 10, but here the variation is to stand on it once the count is zero or higher. Can you explain this just a bit? Everything else I’ve read on blackjack confirms your basic strategy chart.
Thanks again
Ben
I just came back from Vegas and I could not find a game on the strip that paid 3:2 for less than a $25 minimum.
However, found plenty downtown with $5-15 buy-ins that pay 3:2.
El cortez has a double-deck game that’s face up with about a 75% deck penetration that pays 3:2.
Make sure you have the right direction of decisions here…
With really bad counts of -5 or worse you should hit (even if surrender is allowed). Because of the bad count, you have a better chance of hitting without busting, although that is offset by the fact that the dealer is also less likely to bust.
At counts of -4 to just under zero, it’s better to hit than stand, but both are worse than surrender’s guaranteed loss of half your bet. So if allowed, surrender.
Once you get to true zero or a plus count, standing becomes better than hitting, but again both are inferior to surrender if it is available. I assume much of that loss rate is due to the increased chance the dealer has a pat hand in plus counts.
Most of my play has been in two-deck games without surrender available, so I rarely played games where I could use dual indexes with one for surrender and one for hit/stand. As a result, I actually never bothered learning the surrender indexes!
Bleh. It sounds like it has become even more common since my last trip to LV.
Thanks for the reply; can you explain why the -4 makes it favourable to surrender as opposed to hit? I thought a lower count would increase the player’s chances of getting winning hand.
Thanks so much!
B