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I just got my basic strategy card but in the key for doubling both are listed as D with no distinguishing factor between double else hit or double else stand and only soft a soft 8 hand with a dealer 2-6 has a DS all other are D. I am wondering if I am being dumb or the card is misprinted?
Thanks for answering my last question; I think this is the best spot for my question about doubles and splits.
A few casinos offer to “pay for your doubles and splits.”
I’m guessing this is actually very few hands, but how does this affect a player advantage (assuming you keep using correct strategy)?
Thanks again,
Ben
Thanks so much for your strategy trainer, it’s helped my game so much! One feature I’d like to see added is the option to disable the display of the player’s hand total, having my hand total automatically displayed is a distraction when I’m practicing my card counting (I need to be able to do both simultaneously).
I have a question : which method is used in the Basic Strategy Variations Matrix( for counting 1 deck )? the hi/lo or the‘Hi-Opt 1′ ?
it’s written that for counting one deck it’s better to use ‘Hi-Opt 1′ but i’m not sure on which of this 2 system is based the matrix that i have to learn
I believe those indexes are for Hi-Opt 1, and I am really surprised at how much they differ from Hi-Lo.
This is another aspect of the GameMaster School that I did not closely audit when publishing.
I definitely need to take a closer look at them and make sure they are good numbers for Hi-Opt I, and make that clear. Thanks!
I recently finished my first month of card counting adventures. With a spread of 1-20 betting units (rarely do I spread to 20), is winning 500 betting units in ~6 sessions or 30 hours an unreasonable win rate or am I on a super heater? There have been times where I have bet 20 units and lost 80 units from splits and dd. Also is this type of spread going to get me a lot of heat and get kicked out [yes it varies for each casino, whether it is low end or high end / but I just wanted to hear you guys opinion]
You’re blazing hot, and winning 500 units in 30 hours is way above expectation. 1-20 is aggressive, but that’s probably a good thing. Don’t camp out for extended sessions, but it’s a lot easier to beat multi-deck games with that kind of spread.
Thank you for your quick response, follow up question!
With your experience, what do you think a general estimated 1-15 or 1-20 spread would make hourly in betting units? I’m playing a 8 deck with good penetration, H17, double down any card, split aces 4x, no surrender, yes insurance, 3:2 payout.
8-deck games are just tough. A quick look in the book Blackjack Attack for 8D H17 DAS with 2 decks cut off yields an expected profit of only $8 per 100 hands with a $5 to $80 spread.
odds for 6 deck bj double bonus odds i get 9 – 1 on 3 card poker hands the second bonus bets only payout for straight flushes 180 – 1
3 of a kind 90 – 1
and 3 suited of a kind for 270 – 1
how bad are these odds what are the true odds
Not at all. The number of other players at the table (or their ability!) does not affect the game at all. Strategy, and expected results are unchanged whether playing heads up, or at a full table. The only difference is speed of the game, which will move a lot faster with fewer players.
Hello Again, I stumbled across this hand index recently (on a 8 deck shoe with good rules)
when am I supposed to double down on a hard 12 against 5 and 6. I know it’ll probably get a lot of heat, but I just want the knowledge of being able to. On the ILL-18, rank 16/17 for 12 vs 15 at true count -2 and 12 vs 6 at true count -1, it says hit/stand. For this I am confused, if I am going to hit, shouldn’t I double it as I would never hit it again?
Absolutely not! Don’t double a busting hand, ever. The hit/stand index reflects the fact that sometimes in negative counts you should hit some of these stiff hands, because the dealer’s likelihood of busting has decreased to the point where hitting is better than standing stiff. But you’re always at a big disadvantage on these hands, so you would never put more money at risk by doubling.
Match plays offer a huge boost for low limit players. In fact the edge from coupons will often dwarf the rest of your advantage. That’s a good thing!
The EV for a $100 match play will be less than half face value, but not for the reason you were trying to give… Match plays are usually discarded after one decision, win or lose. So it’s not like a regular bet that you keep on a win.
I just got my basic strategy card but in the key for doubling both are listed as D with no distinguishing factor between double else hit or double else stand and only soft a soft 8 hand with a dealer 2-6 has a DS all other are D. I am wondering if I am being dumb or the card is misprinted?
It’s not you. 🙂
The most recent reprint has an error in the legend.
“DS” should say Double if allowed, else stand.
Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks for answering my last question; I think this is the best spot for my question about doubles and splits.
A few casinos offer to “pay for your doubles and splits.”
I’m guessing this is actually very few hands, but how does this affect a player advantage (assuming you keep using correct strategy)?
Thanks again,
Ben
See here: http://wizardofodds.com/games/free-bet-blackjack/
Thanks so much for your strategy trainer, it’s helped my game so much! One feature I’d like to see added is the option to disable the display of the player’s hand total, having my hand total automatically displayed is a distraction when I’m practicing my card counting (I need to be able to do both simultaneously).
Making the hand total display optional is planned for the next version.
Hi , thanks for this lessons.
I have a question : which method is used in the Basic Strategy Variations Matrix( for counting 1 deck )? the hi/lo or the‘Hi-Opt 1′ ?
it’s written that for counting one deck it’s better to use ‘Hi-Opt 1′ but i’m not sure on which of this 2 system is based the matrix that i have to learn
Thanks Lorenzo
I believe those indexes are for Hi-Opt 1, and I am really surprised at how much they differ from Hi-Lo.
This is another aspect of the GameMaster School that I did not closely audit when publishing.
I definitely need to take a closer look at them and make sure they are good numbers for Hi-Opt I, and make that clear. Thanks!
Hello Again,
I recently finished my first month of card counting adventures. With a spread of 1-20 betting units (rarely do I spread to 20), is winning 500 betting units in ~6 sessions or 30 hours an unreasonable win rate or am I on a super heater? There have been times where I have bet 20 units and lost 80 units from splits and dd. Also is this type of spread going to get me a lot of heat and get kicked out [yes it varies for each casino, whether it is low end or high end / but I just wanted to hear you guys opinion]
Thanks Again
Josh
You’re blazing hot, and winning 500 units in 30 hours is way above expectation. 1-20 is aggressive, but that’s probably a good thing. Don’t camp out for extended sessions, but it’s a lot easier to beat multi-deck games with that kind of spread.
Thank you for your quick response, follow up question!
With your experience, what do you think a general estimated 1-15 or 1-20 spread would make hourly in betting units? I’m playing a 8 deck with good penetration, H17, double down any card, split aces 4x, no surrender, yes insurance, 3:2 payout.
Remerciements
8-deck games are just tough. A quick look in the book Blackjack Attack for 8D H17 DAS with 2 decks cut off yields an expected profit of only $8 per 100 hands with a $5 to $80 spread.
odds for 6 deck bj double bonus odds i get 9 – 1 on 3 card poker hands the second bonus bets only payout for straight flushes 180 – 1
3 of a kind 90 – 1
and 3 suited of a kind for 270 – 1
how bad are these odds what are the true odds
This is offered at Hippodrome as “Top 3”: http://www.hippodromecasino.com/hippodrome-casino/blackjack/
(Although I think it’s on 8 decks there.)
The 8-deck house edge on this bet is around 9%, and it would be even worse on 6 decks.
how does the strategy change when theres a full table?
Not at all. The number of other players at the table (or their ability!) does not affect the game at all. Strategy, and expected results are unchanged whether playing heads up, or at a full table. The only difference is speed of the game, which will move a lot faster with fewer players.
Hello Again, I stumbled across this hand index recently (on a 8 deck shoe with good rules)
when am I supposed to double down on a hard 12 against 5 and 6. I know it’ll probably get a lot of heat, but I just want the knowledge of being able to. On the ILL-18, rank 16/17 for 12 vs 15 at true count -2 and 12 vs 6 at true count -1, it says hit/stand. For this I am confused, if I am going to hit, shouldn’t I double it as I would never hit it again?
Absolutely not! Don’t double a busting hand, ever. The hit/stand index reflects the fact that sometimes in negative counts you should hit some of these stiff hands, because the dealer’s likelihood of busting has decreased to the point where hitting is better than standing stiff. But you’re always at a big disadvantage on these hands, so you would never put more money at risk by doubling.
Jared, you’re exactly right. Mike Gunter still hasn’t learned the game!
Match plays offer a huge boost for low limit players. In fact the edge from coupons will often dwarf the rest of your advantage. That’s a good thing!
The EV for a $100 match play will be less than half face value, but not for the reason you were trying to give… Match plays are usually discarded after one decision, win or lose. So it’s not like a regular bet that you keep on a win.
Play all of them you can. Very helpful.