Ecco tutti i commenti pubblicati sul sito, con le discussioni più recenti elencate per prime. Per partecipare a una qualsiasi di queste discussioni, potete rispondere nella pagina dell'articolo.
I am a fairly successful speed count player switching over to the Hi Low system. I see that the Hi Low system is much more powerful system. In many of the variation decisions it is unclear in several cases if the count is true or running. Please advise if possible. Also I am an Atlantic City BJ player with 8 decks. Are the above rules almost the same as 6 decks? Michele
The strategy indexes are all for true count. The only time you can use the running count is for the decision of 16vT where the index number is 0. (A true count of 0 or more is the same as a running count of 0 or more.)
You can safely use the same strategy and index numbers between 6 and 8 decks.
I love the trainer and how helpful it is; is it possible to add a feature explaining when to change from basic strategy? For example, when the true count is negative 2 and you’re deciding to double a hard 9 vs 3(an example off the top of my head, not sure if it makes my point), it would be helpful to see the variation rule come up and not just the basic rule. Great site and thanks for all the info! Ben
I found a bug while playing this morning. Split 10s three times. The first hit was a 9 and I stand with a 19. The second hit was an ace and have a 21, but am unable to proceed because the hit and stand buttons are not available.
I think there was an error in my variation, maybe not though.
The game I am playing is: 6 decks, Hit on Soft 17, Late Surrender, Peek
I had a hard total of 17 with an Ace, 6, 6, 2 against a dealer’s T, my basic strategy chart from this site says to Surrender o/w Stand, since I could not surrender obviously I stood but the coach told me hitting was the best play. Is this an error in the application or something I myself and missing? Thanks a lot. Loving the site.
I guess I have another question. On a Hard 16 with the same rules
6 Decks, DAS, H17, Peek, Insurance Offered
Chart I generated on the site says to Surrender or Stand with a dealer 10 but on a 9 or ace it says surrender or hit, I think I ran into this problem on this application and I looked at other strategy resources and they say to hit. So I guess my question is which one is it?
For a basic strategy player, see the Motore strategico for the correct plays when the dealer hits soft 17.
If you’re asking how the strategy variation index numbers change, many of the index numbers are the same between the 6D S17 game and the 6D H17 game. Most of the few differences are only a single point here and there.
The most important index change between the games is 12v6. In the S17 game, the index is -1. (Stand at -1 or higher.) In the H17 game, the dealer is more likely to bust with a six showing, and the 12v6 index falls all the way to -4. (Stand at -4 or higher.)
I could never understand this about card counting. If the deck is rich in ten counts and aces…It is said it is too the advantage of the player…..How can it not be advantageous to the dealer if the dealer is drawing cards from the same rich deck ? Please explain.
You are correct in thinking that the dealer is just as likely to get those extra face cards and Aces as you are. But those cards are more valuable for the player for two reasons:
1) If you get a blackjack, you win 3:2. If the dealer gets a blackjack, he only wins even money. 2) The dealer is required to hit all stiff hands, while the player should stand when the dealer upcard is a small card. The dealer therefore busts more often when the deck is rich in face cards.
Thus the good cards help the player more than the dealer, and that’s why card counting works.
You say “…in your blackjack lessons that you should take insurance when the count gets to 1.3 or so…” Any idea where you saw that? If it’s mentioned somewhere it is certainly a mistake and needs to be corrected.
Yeah, I guess that’s believable. Stranger things that one expects are conceivable can happen by chance. I do remember this one time I played monopoly, we played for like an hour and fully one out of every 6 rolls was double-6, and that wasn’t on any computer, they were real dice, And I just got my clock cleaned by a casino. I’d win 25 dollar bet (min bet on the 2 deck game) after 25 dollar bet after 25 dollar bet when the count was negative or not positive enough, I endured another player with a superiority complex (ironic) chastising me for being too “afraid” to play basic strategy (sure, it was fear that made me deviate from basic strategy), constantly griping at me for messing up his game by “playing badly” (like standing on 16 against a 10 when the count was like +7), and eventually actually PAYING me 25 dollars to LEAVE the table (!!!), then the count would get high and I’d bet 50, or 100, this one time the count got to +13 with 1.3 decks left I reckoned, I doubled down on 10 against 10 with 200 on the table, and of course I got a frigging 2, and the dealer got the 10 of course…. and then the EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN NEXT HAND! And at the end of the day, 3500 dollars down (with 500 left), security came to my table and said “we believe you are an advantage player” and invited me to play any game but blackjack. Gee. THAT was fun. It’s hard to believe that I supposedly really did have an advantage, but I did a calculation and it turned out that risk of ruin was minimized by betting 54 dollars for every 1 the true count was past 1.8 (or betting as if I had about 15000 dollars regardless of the amount I actually had), and that risk of ruin was about 76% starting from 5000 dollars, so I did know it could go that badly pretty easily but damn it sure seemed like some deity had a grudge with me. But what can I do, no one would ever hire me for an actual job. What happens whenever I touch the stock market? 2008 happens is what happens. I just suck at everything.
Oh, by the way, you say on your website in your blackjack lessons that you should take insurance when the count gets to 1.3 or so. This is wrong. The actually correct answer is actually exactly 3 and a third. Or if you want to maximize utility (expectation on a logarithmic scale, a.k.a. kelly optimality) 3.29 since the insurance bet has negative correlation with the result of the main bet. You’d think it would drop more than from 3.33 to 3.29, but nope, that’s all.
I am a fairly successful speed count player switching over to the Hi Low system. I see that the Hi Low system is much more powerful system. In many of the variation decisions it is unclear in several cases if the count is true or running. Please advise if possible. Also I am an Atlantic City BJ player with 8 decks. Are the above rules almost the same as 6 decks?
Michele
The strategy indexes are all for true count. The only time you can use the running count is for the decision of 16vT where the index number is 0. (A true count of 0 or more is the same as a running count of 0 or more.)
You can safely use the same strategy and index numbers between 6 and 8 decks.
I love the trainer and how helpful it is; is it possible to add a feature explaining when to change from basic strategy? For example, when the true count is negative 2 and you’re deciding to double a hard 9 vs 3(an example off the top of my head, not sure if it makes my point), it would be helpful to see the variation rule come up and not just the basic rule.
Great site and thanks for all the info!
Ben
Count-based strategy variations are on my list for consideration in the next version, so it may happen. Thanks for the feedback!
Very Nice! Use your site a lot; Very precise. Thank you!
Great game.
I found a bug while playing this morning. Split 10s three times. The first hit was a 9 and I stand with a 19. The second hit was an ace and have a 21, but am unable to proceed because the hit and stand buttons are not available.
Thanks for the report. That sounds familiar as a bug. I’ll make sure the same problem doesn’t happen with the new version being developed.
I think there was an error in my variation, maybe not though.
The game I am playing is: 6 decks, Hit on Soft 17, Late Surrender, Peek
I had a hard total of 17 with an Ace, 6, 6, 2 against a dealer’s T, my basic strategy chart from this site says to Surrender o/w Stand, since I could not surrender obviously I stood but the coach told me hitting was the best play. Is this an error in the application or something I myself and missing? Thanks a lot. Loving the site.
I think I see the problem…
(Ace,6,6,2) is hard 15, not hard 17. Yep, you should hit that against a dealer ten. 🙂
I guess I have another question. On a Hard 16 with the same rules
6 Decks, DAS, H17, Peek, Insurance Offered
Chart I generated on the site says to Surrender or Stand with a dealer 10 but on a 9 or ace it says surrender or hit, I think I ran into this problem on this application and I looked at other strategy resources and they say to hit. So I guess my question is which one is it?
You are referring to this chart:
https://www.blackjackinfo.com/blackjack-basic-strategy-engine/?numdecks=6&soft17=h17&dbl=all&das=yes&surr=ls&peek=yes
and its surprising advice with 16vT. The chart says “RS” which is Surrender if possible, else Stand.
Yet almost all other strategy charts (including my own plastic cards!) say you should hit 16vT in this game.
Which is right? They both are. It’s complicated.
In fact, I wrote a whole article about it a year ago… See 16vT: RS WTF?!
Thank you, informative article indeed.
Haha, woooow silly me. Sorry.
Also Double After Split is allowed, insurance is offered on dealer’s ace if that matters.
Here in the Mid-South and Gulf Coast – Dealers hit A,6 – they do not stand.
How does this process affect “doubling?”
For a basic strategy player, see the Motore strategico for the correct plays when the dealer hits soft 17.
If you’re asking how the strategy variation index numbers change, many of the index numbers are the same between the 6D S17 game and the 6D H17 game.
Most of the few differences are only a single point here and there.
The most important index change between the games is 12v6. In the S17 game, the index is -1. (Stand at -1 or higher.) In the H17 game, the dealer is more likely to bust with a six showing, and the 12v6 index falls all the way to -4. (Stand at -4 or higher.)
Il mio Carte strategiche avanzate have optimized index numbers for all of these games.
I could never understand this about card counting. If the deck is rich in ten counts and aces…It is said it is too the advantage of the player…..How can it not be advantageous to the dealer if the dealer is drawing cards from the same rich deck ? Please explain.
You are correct in thinking that the dealer is just as likely to get those extra face cards and Aces as you are. But those cards are more valuable for the player for two reasons:
1) If you get a blackjack, you win 3:2. If the dealer gets a blackjack, he only wins even money.
2) The dealer is required to hit all stiff hands, while the player should stand when the dealer upcard is a small card. The dealer therefore busts more often when the deck is rich in face cards.
Thus the good cards help the player more than the dealer, and that’s why card counting works.
You say “…in your blackjack lessons that you should take insurance when the count gets to 1.3 or so…”
Any idea where you saw that? If it’s mentioned somewhere it is certainly a mistake and needs to be corrected.
In the School, the lesson at https://www.blackjackinfo.com/blackjack-school/lesson-13-advanced-course-part-1/ correctly includes this:
“If you are playing at a six deck game, insurance is worthwhile when the true count is 3 or higher.”
Yeah, I guess that’s believable. Stranger things that one expects are conceivable can happen by chance. I do remember this one time I played monopoly, we played for like an hour and fully one out of every 6 rolls was double-6, and that wasn’t on any computer, they were real dice, And I just got my clock cleaned by a casino. I’d win 25 dollar bet (min bet on the 2 deck game) after 25 dollar bet after 25 dollar bet when the count was negative or not positive enough, I endured another player with a superiority complex (ironic) chastising me for being too “afraid” to play basic strategy (sure, it was fear that made me deviate from basic strategy), constantly griping at me for messing up his game by “playing badly” (like standing on 16 against a 10 when the count was like +7), and eventually actually PAYING me 25 dollars to LEAVE the table (!!!), then the count would get high and I’d bet 50, or 100, this one time the count got to +13 with 1.3 decks left I reckoned, I doubled down on 10 against 10 with 200 on the table, and of course I got a frigging 2, and the dealer got the 10 of course…. and then the EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED AGAIN NEXT HAND! And at the end of the day, 3500 dollars down (with 500 left), security came to my table and said “we believe you are an advantage player” and invited me to play any game but blackjack. Gee. THAT was fun. It’s hard to believe that I supposedly really did have an advantage, but I did a calculation and it turned out that risk of ruin was minimized by betting 54 dollars for every 1 the true count was past 1.8 (or betting as if I had about 15000 dollars regardless of the amount I actually had), and that risk of ruin was about 76% starting from 5000 dollars, so I did know it could go that badly pretty easily but damn it sure seemed like some deity had a grudge with me. But what can I do, no one would ever hire me for an actual job. What happens whenever I touch the stock market? 2008 happens is what happens. I just suck at everything.
Oh, by the way, you say on your website in your blackjack lessons that you should take insurance when the count gets to 1.3 or so. This is wrong. The actually correct answer is actually exactly 3 and a third. Or if you want to maximize utility (expectation on a logarithmic scale, a.k.a. kelly optimality) 3.29 since the insurance bet has negative correlation with the result of the main bet. You’d think it would drop more than from 3.33 to 3.29, but nope, that’s all.